We are settled in comfy and cozy in a much-too-modern riad in Essaouira (essa-weera). Imagine Puerto Vallarta with a mile long beach and a very high tide (the beach is immense). Or maybe Santa Cruz beach populated with sub-Saharan Africans. Now add camels. This is a fishing port, historically, but also great resort town for Moroccans, and friendly gathering place for a diverse gaggle of tourists and locals.
This morning we travelled to Agadir for lunch, and a wee taste of Morocco's only true all inclusive beach resorts. The sun shone beautifully, until the rain came, and when it came, it really came. It was easy to spend a couple of hours along the waterfront.
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| Jim practicing tea pouring, Moroccan style. I think he's got it! |
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| On the boardwalk in Agadir |
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| Sit ups? She pretending of course |
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| Said gives it a go! |
Here in Essaouira, we are staying at the Raoud Rayhane, a very chic riad in the medina. Doors and frames are grey wash, the decorative door hardware brushed and hammered silver. Filigree lanterns cast patterned light on white and steel grey walls. The central courtyard rises four stories to a deck and panoramic view of the city. On each level cozy cushioned seating areas make for easy gathering for cocktails. (I'm on my way!)
We have the day to ourselves today after traveling from Agadir yesterday. En route we passed through argan forests; Morocco is the only place they grow. Apparently there are tricksters who drive goats up the trees and charge people to take pictures but we are told the goats only go up the trees if there is nothing to eat on the ground. But they definitely do climb the trees and feed on the argan. It's quite a site.
We also stopped at a cooperative to see how the argan cosmetic products are made. We all bought some of course, and are waiting for a miracle to revive our aging skin and hair.
Last night we ate in a local cafe here in the medina and in addition to fresh sea bream we were treated to a whole lot of music and dance. The music here is Gnoua, derived from early African jazz and blues, and mostly played by descendants of very black sub-Saharan Africans who were brought here as slaves. There is something of a revival going on and young players are developing their skills to perfection. We certainly got a sample of that along with spectacular dance from one of the servers who let her hair down (literally) and danced along with the band. Alas, I left my camera at home.
This morning Margaret and I walked the length of the beach. It was quiet but there was some pretty serious football going on both on the beach and in a court built alongside the boardwalk. I'm happy to say we did manage to resist all the offers of a camel ride to the island to see Jimi Hendrix's house ( the story is he lived here but apparently it's not true), and also the hippies (I think this part is true).
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| Soccer on the beach |
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| Daily physical activity: a walk on the beach |
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| The burka, the camel, and the camel-monger! |
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| Essaouira in the background. |
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| Margaret loved this look with the ball cap! |
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| Health GF food in the Medina |
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| Lots and lots of bags, for the beach! |
Essaouira has a sizeable though manageable Medina. We only got lost twice first trying to get back to our riad and then trying to find a shop we had been at before. Who would ever try to find a shop again in a rabbit's warren? But we did it.
Dinner tonight at a beachfront restaurant just after sunset. Bedtime. We are off to Marrakech tomorrow and to meet Fattah's parents.
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| Warm roasted chickpeas from a street vendor |
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