Morocco and then Menton, France 2018 | Fes

These posts are tricky; sometimes I can upload and sometimes I can't, and sometimes I don't know where I left off! But tonight, I am writing from a room at the end of a lane that starts just before the lane that is right next to the door to the riad where we eat but is not the riad where we sleep etc. etc. I think that sums our day here in  Fes wandering the Medina (old Fes), which is between La Ville Nouvelle and the Jewish quarter which is not where the Jews live now (they live in the French quarter) but where they still own shops and real estate.

Before arriving here in Fes last night, we visited the ancient Roman ruins of Volubilis near Moulay Idriss, a World Heritage Site. From high up on the plateau you can see forever, an obvious advantage for the many rulers who occupied this site. The excavated ruins reveal the extraordinary talent of the early Romans in artistry, architecture, engineering, and urban design. But over its 2000 year history it has been significant to many rulers and civilizations, and at the archaeological site and in the interpretive centre there are artifacts representing both Roman and Islamic civilizations. As you follow the marked pathway, many of the ruins expose themselves gently, in hollows and ditches,while others tower over you, with their bits and pieces scattered about on the ground. As we approached the site, Margaret  met up with a woman who shares her connection to the hamsa hand, a near universal symbol, very popular in this part of the world, worn to protect against evil spirits (among other things).

Tunic, or tattoo?

As usual, I fell for the tile work. This could be as much as 2000 yrs old!

On to Fez--not Fes--we are advised--and another riad in the Medina.

Before heading to the Medina, we visited a pottery coop, a great spot for picking up small gifts, but if you want to decorate your garden with Islamic mosaics, this would also be the place. Some of the designs are absolutely stunning. This is one a very few "official city tours" we are on, so of course we have an opportunity to learn about the many artisanal talent of the people who make these designs. What's remarkable about the mosaics is not just how they are made, but that they are laid in place from the back side, with the artist knowing where each piece goes, even though he can't see it. If you've read The Caliph's House, you will know about this already.

Adding a decorative silver thread to the pottery

Preparing the mosaic pieces with precision

Potting

Painting the designs on pottery

Laying the mosaics of a round table

 Our guide today, Aziz, advised us before he let us out of the van at the Medina on what to do if we become disconnected with our group. "Don't move. Don't try to find us. Stay where you are and I will trace my steps back until I find you." Needless to say, I tried very hard today not to fall behind. At first I couldn't see how one could ever get lost as we single-filed our way down the skinniest "street" in the Medina, about shoulder width for me. If you live on this street your address is main street, Fes Medina.

Unlike any souk I have been in, the Medina is organized by trade or artisan or type of product. If I recall correctly, it was several separate souks at one time; now walkways and sometimes street crossings connect the various souks into one of the world's most famous Medinas. It makes it much easier to shop, and shop we did. We were warned about safety and security of our money (in addition to the risk of getting lost) so I took my usual precautions, leaving behind my credit cards and most of my money. There were two problems with that. First, I didn't have enough money for all the things I wanted to buy, and had to borrow from Fattah. He wouldn't bargain for me, but when I struck a deal he stepped up and paid for me, like any good host would do! The second problem with having found a great bargain on a poppy red leather jacket is that now I can't find the money I stashed, which of course, I need to pay Fattah. It will show up though so I'm not toooooo worried about it. The food alleys were brimming with figs and dates, fish and meat, lots of fresh vegetables, mint for the ubiquitous sugared mint tea that is served everywhere, breads and pastries (the smell of fresh bread is intoxicating), seeds and nuts. Donkeys covered in blankets and saddle bags pull carts filled with product up and down the lanes and return empty to the loading area for more.

 "Gift bags" for the bride, I think.

Hmmm...Pistachio? Mint? It's the colour of Margaret's new jacket!

Storks nesting in the towers of the Medina

In the artisan section we visited the leather tannery where they give you fresh mint to sniff at in hopes that it will disguise the odour from the abattoir behind the tannery. It doesn't work. And the smell is enough to turn you away from the tannery. In fact we were so keen to get out of there that we waited until lunch when our guide could call back to the tannery, place our order at our agreed to price, and have our jackets delivered to the next step on our walking itinerary. Delivery service in the Fes Medina!

Olives and lemons, lemons and olives

Is there anything you CANNOT cannot buy in the medina?

I think we might have paid for this one

Vats of dye at the tannery

Scarves? Yes, we have scarves!

We visited the carpet souk-- these might be the finest carpets I have seen anywhere.  I was so proud of myself for getting out of there without a carpet! We visited a shop where bronze pieces are designed and made. A tiny flat- edged tool in the hands of an artist can make the most intricate designs imaginable. We visited a shop where strands from agave plant are  spun into a silk-like fibre that is then woven on complex looms into table cloths and scarves. I can't begin to describe the artistry and craftsmanship of all of the shops we visited to today. Is there junk? Well of course there is, but the Medina is a small city unto itself (350,000 people live in the Fes Medina) and it is bursting with talent. Fattah tells us that this is where Berber, Jewish and Andalusian crafts meet, giving rise to the varied and unique artistry that you see here in the Medina.

Among my favorites in the Medina was a tiny museum housing rooms filled with artifacts, including a 1720 Stradivarius violino alto.  There is also, within the Medina, a madrassas, or theology college, that is part of the Quraweene, the first university in the world.

Tonight we ate dinner at our previous hotel (just down the lane) in the central courtyard.. Meals mostly start with Moroccan salad. Don't think salad the way we think salad in North America. It is more like Spanish tapas with several plates of vegetables cooked in interesting ways. Some are spicy, but most are not. Our main course was a lamb and prune tagine with an additional vegetable tagine alongside. The tagine is amazingly versatile as a cooking dish. (This morning our eggs were cooked in and served in a tagine.)

Time for bed. We have a long day tomorrow mostly in the van as we head for the Middle Atlas Mountains and the Sahara.