Morocco then Menton, France 2018 | More Marrakech

A short walk in intense heat and we are at the  Bahia Palace, the former estate of an all-too-powerful governor under the French Protectorate (the King at the time, only 12 years old, was ineffective).  The architecture is interesting enough but the decoration, especially the ceilings, are what struck me. Not since the Sistine Chapel have I felt such a strong urge to lay on the floor and stare. The colours and patterns nestled among cedar beams, high arches and domes are magnificent. Indigo, saffron, turmeric and red--I can't keep track of the dyes--accentuate curvy Islamic designs mixed with European paisleys and patterns. Under foot we walk on zellige tile floors in intricate designs.

Cool,  dimly lit rooms lead to blasting hot sunlight bouncing off the white walls and tile floor of the open courtyard of the concubine quarters. Now I get it: the white light is blinding. I pulled my hat further down over my ears and headed for the garden.

We headed back toward  THE BIG SQUARE I(its real name is Jemaa el Fna, but the directional signs in the Medina point you to THE BIG SQUARE)  for an air conditioned lunch, then made our way back with Fattah's help to our riad in the Medina. At 830 am, when Margaret and I walked in the square, shopkeepers were just beginning to open up their shuttered windows and rolling up the doors, hanging goods from high railings, and otherwise displaying  their wares. The cleaners were out in full force; and drivers were lined up ready to start the day.

Ever wondered where all those donated false teeth go?

Taxis and motorcycles were dodging one another  and the  giant street sweepers in the mostly empty square. Now at mid day it is a many-coloured hive of activity. Feeling weary and wilted, I opted for a rest in the  coolness and quiet of the riad.

It's our last night in Marrakech and in the real Morocco before we head back to the big city of Casa. Fattah has chosen a Syrian restaurant. Dinner is always late, after sunset, so we agree to meet at Le Cafe de Paris at 730. Most of us headed out into the Medina with a list of must-haves before going home. Fattah lead us through the various souks, helping us with colours and sizes, but never with bargaining. By now we are all pretty good at that, and everyone came away satisfied.

The Syrian restaurant was exquisite, our reserved terrace seating the perfect spot for our next-to-last supper. There were familiar dishes on the menu--things like hummus, skewers, eggplant--but as I looked round the table I realized they had taken preparation and presentation to a new level of perfection. Margaret and I shared a watermelon salad, not unlike the one I make, but so much more savoury. I will be looking for a new recipe when I come home! Our main course was a dish of ground meat nested on creamy hummus, and topped with a herbed creamy tahini. Another recipe to track down.

We chose two desserts, to be shared by all. The first  was a feather-light lemony cheesecake on a nut crust; the second a halvah-like creamy pudding with pistachio topping. Carol (the other one) said it all. They were divine! As we headed back through the square toward the Medina and our riad we were engulfed by the music of street performers, the hawking of sellers of everything from watches to those silly flares (which I love) that you fire up into the air. Carol has a great photo of the square at night which I must ask her for.