More from Christchurch

Well, actually I'm sitting in front of the TV at Margaret's watching The Good Wife, and trying to catch up on five years of the serial. We got home this morning, and after a couple of hours (not an exaggeration) in customs, we are home, watered, walked and fed. The next few posts were written in NZ but we had almost no connectivity after we left Lincoln, so I'm catching up here on the posts.

So here it is, Christchurch, Part 2

Then it was off to explore Christchurch. At first is was just interesting. And then the weight of it hit the pit of my stomach. There are construction fences and signs everywhere, disruptions in traffic, empty lots surrounded by wire, cranes, half-demolished buildings everywhere. It's chaotic, with blocked streets; wind gusts send up clouds of dirt and debris. I certainly understand why locals want to avoid the downtown area. Heartbreaking, depressing, devastating—this is how they describe their beloved city, some of them hard hit by the quake, others experiencing mostly the aftermath and a deep sense of loss. 

Lunch time on the construction site

Christchurch construction

Another of many

Empty lot; more destruction

In Cathedral Square new, inspiring projects bump up against despairing loss. There is an amazing living archway teaming with succulents and flowers. From underneath you can observe the Cathedral in its state of semi-demise. Everywhere there are signs of the project plans to revitalize and restore the square. There is a chess set, art on the construction walls, kids riding skateboards. The tram rumbles by, faceless cameras poking out the windows, aimed squarely on the historic cathedral.

Living wall, artful construction site at the Cathedral

The Cathedral

Planning for a new Cathedral Square

Cathedral construction site

From the square we walked on to New Regent Street where we found lunch, and Gandalf,  a local activist. New Regents has small shops on the street level and flats above, so that small business people can afford to operate. Many were empty, and so were most of the chairs outside the cafes, but there were signs of hope here. Gandalf was talking up his case against “them” for having demolished so many buildings. Later I noted a poster that indicated that 232 historical buildings had been demolished. Gandalf and co. would like to see more restored and fewer destroyed. It seems to be a fairly strong political movement, and the Cathedral is at the centre of it. 

Resting on "lawn" furniture in the street

New Regent Street

The trolley turn-around in New Regent Street

From there we made our way to Re-Start, the pop-up container shopping district. It's a bustle of activity. There are lots of shops and shoppers—all desperately needed to support the local economy. 

 Re-Start Streetscape

Container coffee shop

Re-Start Streetscape

Shopping abundance

Re-Start Streetscape

Donated flower pots outside Ballantyne's Department Store

Farewell Starbucks

Our final stop was the temporary cathedral, dubbed the Cardboard Cathedral. Again, containers formed the base, but the structure is mostly built from cardboard and local wood, and features a large glass window over the entrance that reflects coloured light onto the simple interior. Check out this and other architectural works by Japanese architect Shigeru Ban. 

Street art enroute to the Cardboard Cathedral

White chair installation; one for each life lost

Interior of the Cardboard Cathedral

Cathedral interior

Containers form the base of the temporary Cathedral

As we walked through Re-Start this afternoon a busker described Christchurch as the "International Capital of Resilience and Tenacity". The despair they must feel, and the hope and promise of the future of this city is in the hands of its officials obviously, but it's clear that its artists, musicians, community organizers and ordinary citizens are working hard to bring life back into the downtown, and to reclaim their Christchurch .