I started this post on the way down
Crown Range Road yesterday from Wanaka, and if you are keeping up you
will know that I was a wee bit distracted by the road. This morning
we are in Te Ana-au, getting packed up for a boat and bus ride to
Doubtful Sound, followed by a cruise on the Sound. The trip to here,
from that pass, was pretty uneventful, but we did have a bit of a
shopping spree at The Wool Press in Arrowtown where Tom from France
(travelling and working in NZ) helped us try on every piece of
Icebreaker Merino wear he had in the store. We came away well
supplied for the windy day ahead. Unfortunately it's all torquoise,
so from here on out we will look like mom dressed us as twins.
To retreat back to the start of this
bit of our trip....Our hosts in Blenheim very wisely suggested we
break this north-to-south drive up a bit, and we are so glad we did.
It was a hairy few days of driving—a combination of slaloms and
downhills with parts of it marked as slow at 25km per hour and easy
rain intermittent with outright downpours, followed by very hot sunny
periods.
From Nelson we went up and over the
Buller Pass in pouring rain and stopped only for a walk across the
gorge on a swing bridge. At Hokitika (Hoki for short) we stopped for
dinner at the Beachfront Hotel then headed out of town for a peaceful
overnight stay at Mirror Creek. Hoki is a bit of fun, so we headed
back there for the morning--picture coffee and fudge on main street, shopping at the local artists' cooperative, and groceries with
wi-fi. Back on the road we stopped for a picnic lunch between rains
at Mahinapua Lake then drove on to Franz Josef where we got our local
info and then checked in to our b and b. With long days (sunset near
930) we were able to walk up the glacier walk before dinner and then
found a bit of Asian Fusion. Try pan fried calamari with lime sauce
and a green curry with Jasmine rice. And we weren't expecting much
from the food!.
Thursday morning we were up and out
early and again on the advice of our host (can't beat local
knowledge) we drove up to Lake Matheson, turning off just before Fox
Glacier. The highlight, he said, is the coffee. But the real treat is
the view of Mt Cook and the surrounding range. Lake Matheson boasts
“reflective views” in its calm waters and it's true. As the
clouds lifted over the course of the morning, we got lucky and caught
an unobstructed view of her snow-capped peak—it's the highest mountain
on the island.
From Fox Glacier it's up and over to
Wanaka. This isn't the toughest leg of the trip but it's tough
enough. Another slalom on four wheels in parts, followed by a
downhill then another GS! For a moment I actually saw the speedometer approach 100k, and the road at
least 500m ahead, but those times are rare on these roads. But no one
is in a rush, and we've seen no accidents, and very little to suggest
it's a problem. It's good to slow down; even if it seems we are in a rush, the travel is really at a slow pace and very relaxing. The scenery is spectacular, the weather is warm and
the days are long. Nothing like home this time of year.
Time to fix a lunch and pack for the
trip ahead.
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