Down Under January 2014 | Queenstown

In Queenstown tonight, and although it is a scenic town on the edge of a spectacular lake, we are not impressed. It's crowded--we were warned but for the first time it's actually true. But I can see where it could be fun. There are street performers and various vendors out on the boardwalk, lots of cafes and  al fresco seating. We walked to the end of the road in the wind ( I have on windburned cheek tonight) and through the gardens. Dinner was fine, but not memorable. The shopping here could be good, but I expect the prices are inflated. It's a bit like Banff or Canmore. An adventure centre for sure. They've branded themselves with extreme sports (bungy jumping was invented here) and there are crazy jet boaters out on the water, zip lining, biking, and an endless list of other adventures to sign up for. An old steam ship cruises the lake.

There's an international cadre of young travelers working the cafes and bars. NZ has a travel work program that allows them to stay and travel for a year (only) and then if they can get sponsored one additional year after that. That's it. No more. So many of the people we meet are from elsewhere.

Help wanted, Queenstown

Yesterday's trip out to Doubtful Sound was definitely a good choice over Milford which we opted not to take in at all. We started with a short drive to Manapuori and then a 30 minute  trip on a catamaran across the lake to the underground power plant (we opted out of that tour as well). That's an amazing story of how to save the environment and still meets demands for power, but we didn't think we needed a tour. The water drops from the lake straight down into the earth about 150 m  where it passes through the turbines to generate power, then is piped 10 km toDeep Cove on Doubtful Sound where it drains.  Amazing. There is very little to see above ground, and a very controlled and manageable situation for the lake and the surrounding communities.

 A short bus ride takes you up and over Wilmot Pass  with it's long view of the sound (Carol in her new Icebreaker vest!) and then down to Deep Cove where we boarded our cruise boat, also a catamaran.

The view from Wilmot Pass to Doubtful Sound

These are big boats-- very stable and quiet. The trip out the Sound is at times very cold and windy, and we did get out to the Tasman Sea or just shy of it, and checked out the seal colony. Again, lots of babies feeding and learning to swim.

Doubtful Sound

Last man standing, Doubtful Sound

The winds can be pretty extreme, so everyone rushes out to the deck when it's calm, and then all but the brave and sturdy hang in through the windy bits.

By windy I mean really windy. I could hardly stand on the deck at times. We had a bus load of Chinese tourists, and the most amusing part of the trip was watching the hoards disembark the bus, cameras in hand, and line up in front of any viewpoint or site and take over the space, posing and clicking, clicking and posing. We pretty much had to wait our turn! On the boat, it was the same. The boats are great though, and the commentary, and they serve beer and wine, and hot chocolate with marshmallows. It's really very comfortable. They've had lots of rain here, so many of the waterfalls were full--seems they are dependent on rain to keep them flowing. When it's dry there are fewer; more when it's rainy. And apparently, if you go out in a storm, the water just pours down the mountains everywhere. I'd like to see that. In all, not spectacular--we were hoping for wildlife--but worth the trip. We went with Real Journeys and the service was great.

We've decided to check out of here tomorrow rather than stay for three days, and aren't sure yet where we will head tomorrow. Maybe for the east coast. Off to bed early; the wind and rain have tired me out!

Down Under January 2014 | Making our way to Fjordland

I started this post on the way down Crown Range Road yesterday from Wanaka, and if you are keeping up you will know that I was a wee bit distracted by the road. This morning we are in Te Ana-au, getting packed up for a boat and bus ride to Doubtful Sound, followed by a cruise on the Sound. The trip to here, from that pass, was pretty uneventful, but we did have a bit of a shopping spree at The Wool Press in Arrowtown where Tom from France (travelling and working in NZ) helped us try on every piece of Icebreaker Merino wear he had in the store. We came away well supplied for the windy day ahead. Unfortunately it's all torquoise, so from here on out we will look like mom dressed us as twins.

To retreat back to the start of this bit of our trip....Our hosts in Blenheim very wisely suggested we break this north-to-south drive up a bit, and we are so glad we did. It was a hairy few days of driving—a combination of slaloms and downhills with parts of it marked as slow at 25km per hour and easy rain intermittent with outright downpours, followed by very hot sunny periods.

From Nelson we went up and over the Buller Pass in pouring rain and stopped only for a walk across the gorge on a swing bridge. At Hokitika (Hoki for short) we stopped for dinner at the Beachfront Hotel then headed out of town for a peaceful overnight stay at Mirror Creek. Hoki is a bit of fun, so we headed back there for the morning--picture coffee and fudge on main street, shopping at the local artists' cooperative, and groceries with wi-fi. Back on the road we stopped for a picnic lunch between rains at Mahinapua Lake then drove on to Franz Josef where we got our local info and then checked in to our b and b. With long days (sunset near 930) we were able to walk up the glacier walk before dinner and then found a bit of Asian Fusion. Try pan fried calamari with lime sauce and a green curry with Jasmine rice. And we weren't expecting much from the food!.

Thursday morning we were up and out early and again on the advice of our host (can't beat local knowledge) we drove up to Lake Matheson, turning off just before Fox Glacier. The highlight, he said, is the coffee. But the real treat is the view of Mt Cook and the surrounding range. Lake Matheson boasts “reflective views” in its calm waters and it's true. As the clouds lifted over the course of the morning, we got lucky and caught an unobstructed view of her snow-capped peak—it's the highest mountain on the island.

From Fox Glacier it's up and over to Wanaka. This isn't the toughest leg of the trip but it's tough enough. Another slalom on four wheels in parts, followed by a downhill then another GS! For a moment I actually saw the speedometer approach 100k, and the road at least 500m ahead, but those times are rare on these roads. But no one is in a rush, and we've seen no accidents, and very little to suggest it's a problem. It's good to slow down; even if it seems we are in a rush, the travel is really at a slow pace and very relaxing. The scenery is spectacular, the weather is warm and the days are long. Nothing like home this time of year.

Time to fix a lunch and pack for the trip ahead.

Down Under January 2014 | On the road again

I`m writing this with my netbook on my lap as Margaret drives another twisting narrow road between Wanaka and Queenstown. You should hope at tis point that I edit well because my eyes ar frimly fixed ont he road ahead. Think the old road to Marmot basin, with no shoulders and lots of traffic going both both ways. Or maybe the Fraser canyon because half the vehicles are pulling boats. It`s dry and sagey like Kelowna or perhaps Kamploops (this is for sure a lake distrircit) , there we go, the summit and an incredible view. Time for a stop. Oh my gosh....

Down down down we go, feet braced, eyes ahead. It's farmland I guess, maybe grazing for sheep and cattle. Somewhere in here there are ski fields as they call them, but we haven't seen any sign of them. There is white foxglove along the side of the road, and pink and purple as well—although these look more like lupins. It's getting greener as we come down off the mountain, and now the lake—or another lake--is laid out before us. Big sheep—and lots of them, so that answers that question. Whew, I think we are mostly down. Margaret has just finished a bacon and egg pie offered to her by a traveller at the lookout, but I'm ready for coffee and a second breakfast. Slowed to 15 for another hairpin bend (M says she prefers the innies to the outies)—there's a beautiful valley below us, nothing but (very strong) wooden fence post style railing beside us, rocks held back by wire mesh on the mountain side. I could walk down this hill faster than one can drive it—oops there's someone walking up it! Whew, down and on the road to Arrowtown. I need to go to the bathroom; M says she went on the way down.

Sending this from Chop Shop in Arrowtown.

Down Under January 2014| Abel Tasman Day 3

It's now two days later and I remember nothing of this last day, except for the long passage across low tide and a happy ending in Tot. We did meet up with a friend of a friend, Rutha, and had a great visit with this amazing woman from Wyoming. She spends her winter's in NZ. I need to figure out how to do that! Here's some pics.

Another golden sand beach on the Abel Tasman

Margaret on another golden sand beach on the Abel Tasman

Margaret Carol and Rutha

Approaching Tot

Fellow traveller along the Abel Tasman

Down Under January 2014 | The Abel Tasman 3-day Track

It's been tough to find time to post. We arrived in Nelson five days ago (I think) after a twisty drive up and over from Blenheim. But first we stopped for lunch at Allan Scott Winery, which was recommended to us many times over. Thanks especially to Baiba for this suggestion. We tasted several wines before lunch (ouch) and I had a chance to appreciate NZs Methode Traditionelle for the production of "bubbles". This is how they distinguish their sparkling wines from more Champagne-like wines made the old way. GF eating is fairly easy here so I had a linguine dish with, of course, white wine sauce, and Russian fudge for dessert (that's the flavour not the origin) which tasted much like maple with a bit of burnt sugar finish. Sounds more like a wine doesn't it! The winery itself is really a work of art--all made to look like a cellar, with plaster walls and numerous seating areas, including both a covered and open patio. Intermittent drizzle kept us inside. Their photos are much better than mine so check out the link if you are interested.

Wine tasting at Allan Scott, Marlborough, NZ

 Our bed and breakfast in Nelson is all that we had hoped for and more. It's actually in Tahunanui, across from the beach. We really thought the pics on the internet could not be real but they are.  Absolute Beach Bed and Breakfast is a stunning home in a stunning location. I am writing this while sitting in the room featured on the site, but our first night we were offered the 'bridal suite" (it's occupied tonight by honeymooners) which is on the upper floor with it's own sitting room complete with television,two large red  leather couches, a piano, a large window facing out to the beach, spa tub, and a private grassed-in lounge area at the back. The view across the water is to the Abel Tasman National Park which is the real subject of this post, but you know, it's hard not to be impressed by this landscape and the sea beyond.

So to the Abel Tasman Track. We bussed from just down the road to Marahau then tramped 40 km over three days with two overnight stays. It's a well-used track that takes you through forest, along beaches, and across two tidal bays which must be crossed at low tide until you reach the rather busy drive-in camping area at Totaranui.

The first day was relatively easy because you spend a fair bit of time getting there. We picked up our packed  lunch (gf of course) and had coffee at the Park Cafe before heading out, with Anchorage as our destination for the day. Anchorage is just that--a sheltered harbour where boats and kayakers come in and where we stayed for the night on board a boat that slept 20 guests and crew. There was steak and sausage and salads for dinner and significant amounts of wine and beer passed the lips of a diverse group of travellers: a family of six who had kayaked in, a father and daughter from the North Island, two young professionals from Argentina and Chile both studying and working on the North Island, a couple from Belgium, and many more that we did not get to know. Some of these travelers followed our same itinerary so we had a chance to get to know them along the way. After tramping for 12km, it was no problem getting to sleep but we were awakened early to pounding rain, blistery winds and the hollers of a nearby sailor trying to alert another boat that their anchor was up and they were drifting. Just a little excitement to get us up and moving for our second day on the track.

Our agent described day 2 as the best day of the track, the most beautiful and everyone's favourite. Anyone we met described it as the toughest, and I think both descriptions were true.  There is an an early low tidal crossing at Torrent Bay which you have to make by 930 so the skipper dropped us on the beach in the pouring rain at about 8 am. Once you get through the muck of the low tide, you can change into proper shoes, but it was still raining and it was a bit of a hike before we could peel off those wet outer layers at Bark Bay and enjoy the sun. The latter half of the day included a fairly steep climb out of Bark Bay, a bare foot walk along Onetahuti beach at high tide, and on to the Lodge at Awaroa.

The beach at Awaroa

Awaroa Lodge is a luxurious eco-lodge in the park that strives to minimize its imprint on the park. They maintain an organic garden on site, serve up local fish, provide an eco-friendly all purpose wash soap, and  blends seemlessly into the landscape. Due a slight error in our reservation (one bed instead of two) they kindly upgraded us to a suite, and we had a spacious room with seating area, a Nespresso, patio looking out to the wild, and cozy down-filled quilts. Dinner was great: lamb for both of us with all those home-grown veges, including kumara, a popular NZ root vegetable much like a sweet potato. We met two women from Christchurch over dinner who with their families were still feeling the effects of the earthquake, and spent a great evening getting to know them. Our only regret at having chosen this small luxury was not staying for two nights and exploring more of the tracks around the Lodge.

Awaroa Lodge

Low tide crossing at Awaroa

Day three started with this load tide crossing at Awaroa. Off to bed. Day 3 to come.

Down Under 2014 | Tramping on the track and bathrooms that talk!

First you have to learn the language. Well actually first you have to go to the bathroom, and go again and again, if you don't believe your ears the first time. I was decidely impressed with her/him--knowing when to flush and when to start the water and when to stop, and when to begin the dryer, and how much time I had left before the door would automatically unlock. No dawdling here--10 minutes max that's it. No reading the newspaper.

We headed out on our first tramp on Wednesday on a section of the Queen Charlotte track. Who's Queen Charlotte you might ask. We did. Captain James Cook, sailing on the Endeavour named one of the sounds in this area (there are dozens) in 1770 or thereabouts for the consort of the King of England--at least that's what it says on the rock that is erected on Moutara Island Bird Sanctuary. Our trip started in Picton at 745 where we boarded the good ship Beachcomber for a 2-hour ride through the sound to Moutara where we had a quick up and down to the top from which Cook perused the lands and figured out it was two islands not one (Cook Strait divides them). The bird life is amazing really, with a chorus of song about you all the time.

From there it was a short water taxi ride over to Ship Cove, one of Cook's preferred hang outs, for our start of the walk, I mean tramp. It's difficult to describe this track, because nothing really happens. From the start at the Cove you climb for about 2 km with an elevation gain of 200 m over rocks and muck (it had rained for three days prior), lots of tree roots and the occasional clear bit of trail--make that track. From the top you can look across to the saddle which is your next destination, and part way there you come to a small picnic area again with views and an opportunity for lunch or, in our case, a much-needed  rest.  From there you tramp along for what seems forever with really nothing to see and nothing to tell you how far you've gone, or how far you have yet to go. with the boat scheduled to be at Furneaux Lodge at 4:15,  it really was just a race to get there and be sure that we did not miss our ride back to Picton. I hate to suggest that it was boring, but it was, well, let's just say boring. In all it's about 15km and we timed it at about 4.5 hrs, not bad considering the terrain and the climb at the start.

We had a great dinner out in Picton then drove back to Blenheim, cleaned up, and spent the evening with our hosts at our bed and breakfast. John and Lorna were fantastically helpful, John with a keen aptitude for the history and lore of the country, and Lorna anticipating our every need and sitting up late chatting over wine and a sampling of her home baking. We could not have been more comfortable or felt more welcome. Thank you both for making our stay in and around Blenheim so great. If you or anyone you know is heading to Blenheim or near there consider staying at John and Lorna's relaxing, beautifully landscaped home. You may even get a sample of John's barbecuing or smoking (of the food sort).

Down Under January 2014 | OMG Sperm Whales

Our whale watch trip was a great success: two giant sperm whales lounging on the surface and of course we caught THE BIG DIVE. I've seen whales but not this big and not this close up. Really a great trip.

Margaret always oohs and ahs at the seals, and there were lots here, including tons of pups learning to swim in the pools around the rocks. It's breeding season, and the males are still territorial so lots of females and pups hanging around together. I'm sure there will be pictures but not this morning. Had New Year's Eve dinner at the Green Dolphin. I ate whitebait for the first time--it's so tiny I think BAIT would be sufficient to describe the crispy wigglies on top of my salad. The local lamb was perfect; Margaret had a fish whose name I don't remember. ...fish is fish at this point. Well actually that's not true: there are green mussels here and also crayfish. The crayfish it priced out of this world so we have yet to try it. The best advice we have is to either go to a food truck along the beach, or buy it and cook it ourselves.

We also visited a friend of Margaret's friends, Jill and Norman, at Seaward Pottery.  We found Juanita on the tractor, mowing the large yard around her home, cabins, and studio. We loved the pottery and Juanita! Thank you Jill for this recommendation. Norman, we certainly see why you settled in here. The surf was nothing like what you have in Santa Cruz, but lots of people were camped on the beach. A surfer's hangout to be sure.

Margaret and Juanita at Seaward Pottery

We are having lots of trouble connecting reliably to the internet so these posts are days late. This morning we are in Blenheim (Marlborough wine country), waiting for the rain to let up so we can pack the car and be on our way. We spent yesterday hiking and today we are off to a winery recommended by Margaret's friend Biba in San Jose, and then on to Nelson where we have a night before our we start the Abel Tasman track. Later.