It's
siesta time, which is anytime post-lunch and when the temperature
rises about 35. This morning we walked to Juan Valdez (think
Starbucks) on Plaza Bolivár. We were sitting outside eating pastries
and drinking coffee when we were approached by a proper-looking
20-something wearing a t-shirt advertising trips to one of the
islands. Having been there yesterday, we declined, but struck up a
conversation, in English. Samúel is studying English and tourism,
hoping to make a career that allows him to meet interesting people
from all over the world (like us, of course). He is bright, and
speaks English well. He was shocked to learn, however, that we had
not seen some of the most famous sites in Cartagena: Boca Grande and
Manga districts and the Castillo de San Filipe de Barajas. As we were
thinking “another castillo”, he was describing walks down dark
tunnels, and views across Cartagena. We were sold. So...he helped us
make our plan for the day, starting in Manga.
Manga
is only a few blocks away, perhaps a kilometre, but we didn't know
that at the time so we flagged a (un-metered) cab. For 6000 Colombian
pesos, less than $3 CDN, he headed toward the cruise ship port.
Once we got that misunderstanding corrected, we were dropped off near
the nautical club. Manga is across a narrow waterway from Boca
Grande, and offers its own torres, but not so many. These
apartment and hotel hi-rises are perhaps 35 stories, and skinny. We
think there is perhaps only one or two suites on each floor. Although
there are many smaller, older buildings along the road, no doubt
Manga will someday look like Boca Grande. We enjoyed a stroll through
the parks along the bay, past the yacht harbour, sharing the pathway
with an occasional runner (way too hot), families, and tourists, some
of them boarding boats we think to go to the islands.
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Manga Nautical Club in the foreground; Boca Grande in the background. |
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Manga towers overlooking the water |
Margaret
researched a restaurant, La Restaurante de la Fuerte del Pastelillo.
It was the perfect setting, muy ambiente as they say here,
tucked into an old fort, and alongside the yacht club. There are
white table cloths, countless servers wanting to help, a menu
specializing in fish dishes of course. We were a bit early, but it
filled up fast. We watched as a yacht pulled up at a dock at the
waterside, we assume for take out. Or maybe the
restaurant staff serve on board! Cartagenians like to linger over
lunch and cold drinks, so...we lingered over lunch and cold drinks. When in Rome... Cocktails first of
course—gin and tonic for Margaret, a mojito for me. For our main
course, we added a glass of vino blanco, three entradas
(light, tasty small plates) of fish (a pescado which could be
anything, a salmon ensalada, and tuna tataki), french-style bread (common here) and
patacones (plantain crisps that I can eat). We finished off with
dessert and coffee. We haven't tasted a lot of local desserts but the
caramelized, candy-like fine popcorn over ice cream is worth
trying. Do I have to tell you we didn't make it to Boca Grande? We
asked about a water-taxi, but there's no such thing. We did take
pictures of it though, with its Miami style hi-rises and multi-level
shopping centre just out of reach. Darn.
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Boca Grande from Manga: too many hi-rise towers to count |
Siesta
time before heading to the Castillo and Plaza de Trinidad in
Getsemaní later today. Samuél will be pleased!
Oops,
well, the best of intentions. We didn't make it to the Castillo and
it doesn't look like we will make it to the Plaza either, although
it's early here for dinner still. Margaret's leg is acting up, so no
more walking today. I didn't get to the book store in time to buy
another book, so I'm looking for something on her Kobo. I'm packed,
ready to catch a plane at 11:00 tomorrow bound for Bogota. Thoughts
of home are chilly indeed.
Another
change of plans. Heading out for dinner. We taxied over to Gethsemani and the Plaza de Trinidad, which Samuel had said was a must. We found fresh-made juice, a zumba hour (men and women, teenaged boys and girls, children and babies), dogs and kids, more food carts, and just a whole lot of people having a whole lot of fun. Dinner was good--very American style ribs, baked potato, coleslaw, and a side of deep fried yucca--a bit like eating sweet potato fries but more the size of fried cheese sticks.
This is an entertaining place. There is so much to enjoy--visually with the buildings and graffiti, plazas lined with food carts, the historic wall, street entertainers, and the sea. Here's a collection of photos from both cameras.
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Sculpture in the plaza; The Poker Game |
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An abundance of street vendors |
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Getsemaní houses, hotels and cafes |
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Plaza de Trinidad during the day |
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Getsemaní graffiti |
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A Cartagena balcony |
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Sunset over the Caribbean Sea |
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An all-ages crowd |
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Zumba hour led from the steps of the church in Plaza de Trinidad |
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Juice stand at Plaza de Trinidad
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